Different types of drainage systems
There are two category types of drainage categories, one being foul water and one being surface water. Any contaminated water from your bathroom, kitchen, or utility room is considered foul water and is always directed to a foul water drain. However, surface water drainage
Most properties either have older drainage systems or combined drainage systems, that directs precipitation to the dirty drain through a series of gully traps to keep bad odors from escaping the drain.
However, the two drainage systems are kept apart in modern homes and systems, and rainfall is either drained into a soakaway, a watercourse, or a surface water sewer. A soakaway is typically nothing more than a hole in the ground that has been backfilled with coarse stone, allowing surface water to percolate back into the ground.
Installing your drainage system
You should always make sure that you communicate with the Building Control Department at your local Council, regardless of whether you are installing a new drainage system or intend to make changes to an existing drainage network. You must provide blueprints that specify the range of the work to be done, making sure that the work complies with the most recent Building Regulations because, in essence, the job will need to be passed off and inspected thereafter. On the other hand, if you are simply replacing broken pieces, notification is not required.
All drainage pipes and underground drainage fittings should be Terracotta in colour to ensure compliance with the Building Regulations and prevent the works from having to be rejected by the Building Control Department.
How to install your underground drainage systems?
A network of flexible plastic pipes, inspection chambers, rodding points to clear any clogs, and access fittings make up modern underground drainage systems.
It is crucial that there be appropriate cover of at least 600mm because such materials are prone to distortion under load. The material used as the cover’s backfill should permit percolation; often, pea shingle or another granular form of stone is utilised.
Trenches can be built by hand although a small excavator or micro digger is usually preferred. Building regulations should be followed, and anything deeper than 1,200 mm must always be supported or shored up. The sides should ideally be dug at an angle of repose to reduce the risk of the excavated material collapsing in on itself and causing significant damage or death.
Use a hacksaw and mitre block to precisely measure the drainage pipes’ dimensions and cut them to fit. The freshly cut pipe will have rough edges after being cut, therefore the surplus burrs need to be removed and the edges need to be chamfered at a 45-degree angle with a wood file. Using a cloth to wipe the pipe should be sufficient.
It is simple to connect underground drainage pipes and the fittings that accompany them, but the male and female ends of each component must be lubricated to fit together. They ought should slot together rather easily after being greased.
Channel drains are a typical building material that are employed globally for several applications. They may also be referred to as linear drains or trench drains. But how do drainage channels work?
Unlike gullies, which only drain water from one point along their length, linear drainage systems do so continuously. They consist of a closed channel with a grating of some kind on top.
A channel drain’ fundamental function is to remove surface water from a specific area. They should never be placed uphill, but rather at a location where surface water is likely to roll towards.
To Find out more about Channel Drainage, visit our sister website www.polychannel.co.uk or alternatively if you want to read more on the installation process of channel drainage check out our blog post ‘How to install Channel Drain’